Exceptional Works: Anni Albers

Red and Blue Layers, 1954

Cotton
 Framed: 29 3/4 x 22 7/8 x 1 1/2 inches
 75.6 x 58.1 x 3.8 cm

Anni Albers in her weaving studio at Black Mountain College, 1937. Photo by Helen M. Post. Courtesy of the Western Regional Archives, State Archives of North Carolina

“[I want] to let threads be articulate again and find a form for themselves to no other end than their own orchestration, not to be sat on, walked on, only to be looked at.”

—Anni Albers

Presented on the occasion of Art Basel 2025, Red and Blue Layers (1954), is a rare example of Anni Albers’s pictorial weavings, a body of work produced between the late 1940s and 1960s. A key concept within her oeuvre, these intricately realized and technically complex abstractions are emblematic of the artist’s sustained efforts to elevate weaving to be regarded as an art form.

Red and Blue Layers was originally acquired directly from the artist by Thomas Brown Wilber, a friend of Cy Twombly; Twombly had studied at Black Mountain College, where Albers taught weaving and textile design between 1934 and 1949. The work remained in Wilber’s family until 1998, when it was acquired by the Josef and Anni Albers Foundation. It has an extensive museum exhibition history, including major shows at MIT New Gallery, Cambridge, Massachusetts, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice, the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen, Düsseldorf, The Art Institute of Chicago, and Tate Modern, London. Red and Blue Layers will be featured in the upcoming exhibition Anni Albers. Constructing Textiles, opening at the Zentrum Paul Klee, Bern, in November 2025.

Anni Albers (at bottom right) and members of the weaving workshop, Bauhaus Dessau, c. 1927. Photo by Lotte Stam-Beese. Courtesy of the Josef and Anni Albers Foundation

Known for her pioneering graphic wall hangings, weavings, and designs, Anni Albers is considered one of the most important abstract artists of the twentieth century, as well as an influential designer, printmaker, and educator. Across the breadth of her career, she combined a deep and intuitive understanding of materials and process with her inventive and visually engaging exploration of form and color.

Born in Berlin, she studied weaving at the Bauhaus beginning in 1922, eventually becoming acting director in 1931. Her innovative textiles from this period combined avant-garde geometric abstractions with weaving, creating works that were at once functional and aesthetic.

Anni was deeply influenced by pre-Columbian art and textiles, which she encountered on trips to Mexico during her time teaching at Black Mountain College. She went on to employ ancient techniques discovered through her in-depth study and collection of these works, leading to the creation of her pictorial weavings of the 1950s. 

Installation view, Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London, 2018. Photo: © Tate (Andrew Dunkley and Seraphina Neville)

Installation view, Small-Great Objects: Anni and Josef Albers in the Americas, Yale University Art Gallery, 2017

 

“We must ... experience the most real thing there is: material…. Weaving is an example of a craft which is many-sided. Besides surface qualities, such as rough and smooth, dull and shiny, hard and soft, it also includes color.... It may end in producing useful objects, or it may rise to the level of art.”

—Anni Albers, “Work with Material,” Black Mountain College Bulletin, 1938

Anni Albers and local weavers, Santo Tomás, Oaxaca, Mexico, 1956. Photo by Josef Albers. © 2025 The Josef and Anni Albers Foundation/ARS, New York

Albers’s pictorial weavings show her avant-garde approach to her medium, pulling equally from a detailed study of ancient Peruvian and Mexican textiles and the conventions of twentieth-century pictorial abstraction. In her book On Weaving (1965), she described the work of Peruvian weavers as “infinite phantasy within the world of threads, conveying strength or playfulness, mystery or the reality of their surroundings, endlessly varied in presentation and construction, even though bound to a code of basic concepts.”

Composed of striated horizontal bands of color attenuated by vertical twists, Red and Blue Layers both invokes the modernist grid while questioning its emphasis on formal reduction by presenting a rhythmic composition that luminously shifts between two and three dimensions.

Anni Albers, Red and Blue Layers, 1954 (detail)

“[The pictorial weavings] are exercises in combining traditional with innovative techniques ... as if the grid were activated with an almost frenetic agitation.”

—Briony Fer, art historian

Installation view, Affinities: Anni Albers, Josef Albers, Paul Klee, David Zwirner, New York, 2025

Albers’s departure from Black Mountain College in 1949 ushered in the most productive period in this body of work. Following her move to Connecticut in 1950, the artist was able to transition away from teaching and shift focus to her workshop, spending the ensuing years on a wide range of related pursuits: creating mass-reproducible fabrics, writing, and further developing her pictorial weavings. During this time, Albers created a range of these abstract but allusive compositions, rivaling contemporaneous developments in painting.

Anni Albers card weaving at Black Mountain College. Courtesy The North Carolina State Archives.

“In weaving, as in music, the components remain forever joinable and separable; threads and melodies, unlike paint, only appear to mix, after all.”

—Jenny Anger, art historian

Anni Albers, Development in Rose II, 1952. Art Institute of Chicago

Anni Albers, Pasture, 1958. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Anni Albers, Under Way, 1963. Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, Washington, DC

The decade was bookended by two important exhibitions: In 1949, Albers became the first textile artist to have a one-person show at The Museum of Modern Art, New York; the exhibition Anni Albers: Textiles—which presented the full breadth of her vast oeuvre—subsequently traveled to twenty-six venues throughout the United States and Canada.

By the end of the 1950s, Anni Albers: Pictorial Weavings (which included the present work) had opened at the MIT New Gallery, Cambridge, Massachusetts. The exhibition traveled to the Carnegie Institute of Technology, Pittsburgh; Baltimore Museum of Art; Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven; and Contemporary Arts Museum, Houston between 1959 and 1960, thus cementing the centrality of this body of work both within Albers’s practice and twentieth-century art more generally.

David Zwirner at Art Basel